which wheels for IMFL? - Triathlon Week

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

Thinking ahead here........which bike/wheelset would you take to IMFL if
this were to be your first and possibly only IM:

1. New ti road bike, LS Tuscany, Mavic Cosmos *clincher* wheels (came with
bike but seem very nice)
2. Old ti tri bike, LS Tachyon (650, aerobars), Zipp full-disk rear and
deep-dish front with *tubular* tires
3. #2 bike with boring rather heavy factory-default wheels with *clincher*
tires

Here's the thing: I want to take the tri bike with racing wheels
because.....well, it's a tri bike w/ racing wheels......I expect IMFL to be
flat and not ridiculously windy and over 100 miles the aero wheelset might
actually make a difference in my time. BUT I have never changed tubular (or
disk/deep-dish) tires on my own....I've never flatted in a race [knocking on
wood] and don't even carry the repair stuff (or know what that would be),
and I would hate to ruin a whole IM because of a flat tire, which seems not
too terribly unlikely to occur in a 112-mile bike leg. I don't like option
#3 because a 650 bike with heavy wheels seems a little pointless, except for
training.

I think I am talking myself into option #1, bringing the road bike, as I
type this........clincher tires, no extended valves to deal with, easy to
change flats/carry repair kit, comfier ride for the long bike leg. I love my
tri bike but can't afford yet another wheelset for it.

Any thoughts?

Susan in LA
(Don't ask me why I thought I needed sewups on my racing wheels when I
bought them 10 years ago....I have no idea....)

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

"Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:Ewuvc.14333$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
<<SNIP>>I expect IMFL to be
> flat and not ridiculously windy and over 100 miles the aero wheelset might
> actually make a difference in my time. BUT I have never changed tubular
(or
> disk/deep-dish) tires on my own....<<SNIP>>

That is a safe bet. Excpect some amount of wind/breeze, but not anything
scarey.

If the prospect of changing the tubular will be a distraction, forget it.
However, if you are up to it, get some instruction at your LBS.

Have you ever changed a a clincher and a) had the sidewall ripped out of the
[ruined] tire b) double-flatted because you didn't locate the
barb/thorn/splinter, glass that was inside the tire? A tubular spare offers
an advantage in those particular scenarios.

The downside of of a tubular spare is on a technical course - - which PCB is
NOT. It takes several hours for your glue to set right, so you can't go
tearing around corners. Again, PCB is not that sort of course.

OTOH, clinchers offer the ability to carry three or more tubes & CO2
cartridges.

I was faced with the same choice and went with tubulars. One thing that
factored in for me is that I am around 200 pounds and REALLY like high
pressure. This may not be a factor for you.

rsquared

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

"rsquared" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:GYvvc.1$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> "Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:Ewuvc.14333$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> <<SNIP>>I expect IMFL to be
> > flat and not ridiculously windy and over 100 miles the aero wheelset
might
> > actually make a difference in my time. BUT I have never changed tubular
> (or
> > disk/deep-dish) tires on my own....<<SNIP>>
>
> That is a safe bet. Excpect some amount of wind/breeze, but not anything
> scarey.
>
> If the prospect of changing the tubular will be a distraction, forget it.
> However, if you are up to it, get some instruction at your LBS.
>
> Have you ever changed a a clincher and a) had the sidewall ripped out of
the
> [ruined] tire b) double-flatted because you didn't locate the
> barb/thorn/splinter, glass that was inside the tire? A tubular spare
offers
> an advantage in those particular scenarios.
>
> The downside of of a tubular spare is on a technical course - - which PCB
is
> NOT. It takes several hours for your glue to set right, so you can't go
> tearing around corners. Again, PCB is not that sort of course.
>
> OTOH, clinchers offer the ability to carry three or more tubes & CO2
> cartridges.
>
> I was faced with the same choice and went with tubulars. One thing that
> factored in for me is that I am around 200 pounds and REALLY like high
> pressure. This may not be a factor for you.

Fortunately it is not a factor. Yet. Although I *have* been consuming a lot
of guacamole lately, in anticipation of all that IM training.

You make an excellent point about the unique problems inherent with changing
clinchers. But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish (Zipp)
wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that long valve out and back in
again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike shop for
Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed. :-)

Susan in (of course) LA

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

"Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message news:<Yq3xc.84$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>...
> But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish (Zipp)
> wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that long valve out and back in
> again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike shop for
> Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed. :-)
>
> Susan in (of course) LA

I have no experience with deep-dish/long valves, but I do use a
tubular-tire disk (ZIPP-950); it's a very old threaded model. No
issues there, other than needing a CO2 cartridge/valve adapter that
fits the disk/valve opening.

Anyway... some checks that work for me:

* There is a double-sided tape product that is making the rounds.
It's nice and neat when you have a very neat controlled place to make
the change. I wouldn't want to have to be so precise (and hurried) on
a road change - - especially a race. I recommend good ol' glue for
the repair kit.

* Be stingy with the glue, in a small spot, opposite the valve hole.
That way, you have a predetermined "easy" place to start prying off
the tire. If it comes down to using the qr-skewer as a pry bar, that
would be the place to start. Otherwise, don't skimp on the glue.

* Last, don't get glue on the valve threads. : O

And, yes... kiss the manicure goodbye : )

rsquared

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

"Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:Yq3xc.84$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> "rsquared" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:GYvvc.1$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> > "Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> > news:Ewuvc.14333$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> You make an excellent point about the unique problems inherent with
changing
> clinchers. But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish (Zipp)
> wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that long valve out and back in
> again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike shop for
> Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed. :-)
>
> Susan in (of course) LA
>

Sorry - - no experience with deep dish/long valve stems configs.

A couple of things to consider if you decide to go in for a lesson...

* There is a new "double-sided" tape that folks are using. I like it, and
use it. However, I would not consider messing with it for a "road fix".
For me it takes too much precision and patience to apply, unless you have a
nice tidy workspace. I would stick with glue.

* Find a narrow point (opposite the valve is good) where you skimp on the
glue application. That way, if you need the quick-release skewer to help
pry off a stubborn tire, you have a logical starting point for ramming the
skewer through.

rsquared

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

"Witheld" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:[Only registered and activated users can see links. ] m...
> "Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:<Yq3xc.84$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]>...
> > But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish (Zipp)
> > wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that long valve out and back
in
> > again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike shop for
> > Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed.
:-)
> >
> > Susan in (of course) LA
>
> I have no experience with deep-dish/long valves, but I do use a
> tubular-tire disk (ZIPP-950); it's a very old threaded model. No
> issues there, other than needing a CO2 cartridge/valve adapter that
> fits the disk/valve opening.
>
> Anyway... some checks that work for me:
>
> * There is a double-sided tape product that is making the rounds.
> It's nice and neat when you have a very neat controlled place to make
> the change. I wouldn't want to have to be so precise (and hurried) on
> a road change - - especially a race. I recommend good ol' glue for
> the repair kit.
>
> * Be stingy with the glue, in a small spot, opposite the valve hole.
> That way, you have a predetermined "easy" place to start prying off
> the tire. If it comes down to using the qr-skewer as a pry bar, that
> would be the place to start. Otherwise, don't skimp on the glue.
>
> * Last, don't get glue on the valve threads. : O
>
> And, yes... kiss the manicure goodbye : )
>
> rsquared

What's a qr-skewer? Is it really hard to pull off the old tire?

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

Susan,

The deep dish or long stem do not create any problem. You should however
have a long stem spare prepared and ready to install. Don't think you can
get the adapters off at road side and back on again without leak problems.
Install the adapter on the spare before you hit the road. I pre-glue my
spares before each race. If done the evening prior to race it will stick
fairly well but I would brake prior to entering any fast corner and never
while in the turn if the tire is changed roadside. On spares that have
sufficient glue I wipe the glue with a glue thinner to re-activate it.

Ken @ Kauai

"rsquared" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:G1Mxc.656$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
>
> "Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> news:Yq3xc.84$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> > "rsquared" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> > news:GYvvc.1$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> > > "Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
> > > news:Ewuvc.14333$[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]...
> > You make an excellent point about the unique problems inherent with
> changing
> > clinchers. But what about changing a tire on a disk or deep-dish (Zipp)
> > wheel? Seems like it would be hard to get that long valve out and back
in
> > again. Guess I just need to get myself down to the bike shop for
> > Tire-Changing 101. Or is this 102? Either way, my manicure is doomed.
:-)
> >
> > Susan in (of course) LA
> >
>
> Sorry - - no experience with deep dish/long valve stems configs.
>
> A couple of things to consider if you decide to go in for a lesson...
>
> * There is a new "double-sided" tape that folks are using. I like it, and
> use it. However, I would not consider messing with it for a "road fix".
> For me it takes too much precision and patience to apply, unless you have
a
> nice tidy workspace. I would stick with glue.
>
> * Find a narrow point (opposite the valve is good) where you skimp on the
> glue application. That way, if you need the quick-release skewer to help
> pry off a stubborn tire, you have a logical starting point for ramming the
> skewer through.
>
> rsquared
>
>

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

"Susan in LA" <[Only registered and activated users can see links. ]> wrote in message
news:oU_xc.6923<<SNIP>>
>
> What's a qr-skewer? Is it really hard to pull off the old tire?
>
>

Sorry, "quick-release" skewer. The thing you run through the hub to clamp
your wheels into the dropouts. It's an old trick to use that as a lever,
when needed, rather than carrying extra tools.

Yes. It can be hard to remove. There are several factors... age of the
glue, temperature, amount of glue applied, etc. If your bare hands cannot
do it, that is what the skewer is for.

Once you get a couple of handwidths of tire free, it will tear right off.
Don't be gentle; the tire is history.

rsquared

08-23-2004, 07:39 PM

Thank you all! Now everyone please bring your old sewups over so I can
practice.

Susan