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Triathlon Transitions
#1
Posted 13 April 2006 - 04:59 PM
I’m often asked by friends how I’m in and out of transition so fast. I can’t say I’m an expert at clearing T1 and T2 but I’m pretty good and would like to share these secrets with my friends if you’re interested.
First let me say that it took me a number of years to get the fact that the transitions are indeed an important part of the race. I was getting beaten by 30 seconds to a couple of minutes by a lot of people. I tried to focus more on training. That did help but not being a pro and therefore needing to earn my living in the “real world”, I could only invest so much time in this practice.
Then I began looking at and tracking my T1 & T2 times. Here I found as much as 5 minutes of my race! There had to be a way of minimizing this. Here’s what I learned:
- Arrive early to make sure you get a good spot as near as possible to the bike and run exit. Rack first, register second.
- Wear the same clothes through the whole race. Swim, bike and run in Tri specific shorts and singlet or top. This prevents the struggle of trying to get a shirt over your wet back.
- Use speed laces (Yankz) on your running shoes. These prevent you from having to tie your shoes. Just pull them on.
- Set your transition spot and bike up thoroughly before the swim start.
- Set your running shoes and hat out in a convenient location. Picture yourself racking your bike in T2. What is the best location for you to QUICKLY grab your shoes, pull them on, throw your hat on and run out?
- Put beverages in your cages. Forget that drink in T1. There’s plenty of time for a sip when you get moving on the bike.
- Use tri specific shoes. Forget the socks. Clip your shoes on your pedals and run a small, light rubber band from the entry assist loop on the back of your left shoe to your rear quick release. This keeps you shoes horizontal, level, off the ground and out of the way. Make sure the rubber band is tight enough so that when you take your first pedal stroke the rubber band will break and not simply stretch. You’ll look pretty funny trying to get that rubber band off as you’re biking down the road :).
- Back your bike up to the rack. This way all you have to do is lift it off and run forward. You’re already facing in the right direction. Most Tri specific seats have notches in the back bottom of the seat to hold it on the rack this way. Many others seats will work or can be hung by the "flat pack". If it won’t stay, try pushing the bike under the rack and hooking the nose of the seat on the pole.
- Place your helmet upside down on your bars with the straps spread properly, front facing towards you so you just flip it on your head. (Did I explain this ok???) If the rack is not stable, and there’s a chance your helmet will be knocked off, rubber band it down. To do this, loop a SMALL LIGHT rubber band through the helmet vents and attach it to your bars. No need to remove it in T1. Just yank the helmet up to break the rubber band.
- Place your sunglasses with the temples open in your helmet.
- If your swim exit/transition is in a contaminated area (sand, cut grass, etc), bring a small Tupperware container and put water in it to dip your feet in. Place this next to a towel you’ve spread out next to your bike. Step from the container, onto the towel. Stand there while you put your sunglasses and helmet on. Don’t put it in the way of yourself or fellow athletes. If it’s a long run from the water to the rack and your feet will be mostly dry, skip this step.
- Put your sunglasses on, clip your chin strap, grab your bike and run out.
- There are methods for speed mounting your trusty steed but for this discussion, we’re going to keep it simple. When you run into the bike mounting area, throw your leg over; place your right foot ON TOP of your shoe. When you press down the rubber band will break and you’ll begin to move. Place your left foot ON TOP of the other shoe and begin pedaling. After you have sufficient momentum, slip one foot in its shoe and close the Velcro. Pedal a few more turns to keep momentum and do the same on the other side. PRACTICE THIS! Be safe!
- Skip the energy gels in Transition. The time you lose won’t be made up on the road.
- When you’re coming in on the bike do three things. 1) stand for a few pedal strokes to get your body ready to carry it’s own weight again. 2) try to match your run cadence with your pedal rpm. If you run at 85 foot strikes per minute, try to match it as closely as you can with your pedal rpms. Here’s the most important part… 3) As close to transition as practically possible, reach down, un-do the Velcro on your shoes, slip your foot out of one shoe, rest it on top and keep pedaling. Do this with the other shoe. You should come into T1 pedaling with your feet ON TOP of your shoes (which are still clipped to your bike). CAUTION HERE! Be safe. If your try this in your first race 50’ from T1 someone is going to get hurt and it will most like be YOU! Your shoes STAY CLIPPED to your bike.
- Although there are methods for stepping safely off the bike, I’m not going to cover those here due to the difficulty in implementation. Just stop your bike in the dismount area, step off and run it into Transition.
- After the bike, when you’re re-racking your bike, run it in and rack it forward. No need to back it in.
- Unclip your helmet and set it next to your running shoes.
- Put your hat on and slip your shoes on. Again, forget the socks.
OK... All this assumes you're fimiliar with the terminology. If I said something you don't understand, just ask. Yes, you will be running in and out of T1 & T2 bare foot. Hey, if triathlon was easy they'd call it football :)
Well folks, that’s all I can think of. I may look back and add something but more than that, I want to prompt discussion from YOU.
“So”, you ask. What were my last T1/T2 times? 1:10 combined including the runs from surf to bike and through mount/dismount? Fast enough?
#2
Posted 17 April 2006 - 07:34 AM
#3
Posted 17 April 2006 - 10:57 AM
Since there was no mention of a wet suit, you race in nice warm water (this is best if you can get it), however here in Colorado the open water is usually open ice in the winter, and by August its a blistering 75 deg. Have you ever had to reapply glide, sunscreen, or chapstick? is this an as needed thing that's not really a transition area question?
And as for improving your times, I don't think I have anything for you because your way faster than I am, but if I ever get faster than you I will let you know what I did to get there.
Maybe in a couple of years me and the wife will come down to your neighborhood and you and I can race together and she can lounge of the beach. I would love to see the Beast up close and personal.
Spike.
#4
Posted 17 April 2006 - 11:46 AM
Spike10 said:
Good tri shoes won't blister you at all. I ride Sidi T1s and Diadoras. and only waer socks in Iron Distance races. As far a runnung, I can get six without any blisters. I forgot to mention that I always keep body glide in T1/T2 in case it's wet or raining. Water in the running shoes changes everything but nothing body glide can't fix :) If you'll train/run without socks, you can either find and treat the "hot spots" or they will calous over. "Hot Spots" can be covered before the race with liquid bandaid quite effectively. Give it a "Tri"!
"Wet what"? First let me say I left Florida because it was too cold. No joke, I'm serious! I've worn my suit only in IMs but someone else took it off me. I use Pam cooking spray to aid that.
I grease up before the race. Body glide and chapstick always. These shouldn't have to be reapplied. I use Bull Frog gel sunscreen and have never had to reapply it either.
You'll get there Spike. Just think your transitions through. Ask yourself "does that step NEED to be done and if so, can it be done on the road while I'm making foward progress?".
Quote
It's a brave soul that utters these words! Next Sunday we're doing our "Beast Cubed" road race. 49 miles and 3X The Beast. FEEL THE LOVE :)
#5
Posted 17 April 2006 - 11:53 AM
Spike.
#6
Posted 17 April 2006 - 02:22 PM
PS I was told that the run here last year was over 90deg. L O V E D it :)
#7
Posted 18 April 2006 - 10:10 AM
I also read that just a dash of baby powder in both pair of shoes goes a long way in chafe prevention and allows easier entry, and who knows maybe it will keep the oder down too :).
Later.
Spike.
#8
Posted 19 April 2006 - 08:30 AM
30 MHP winds, hugh? Would it tick you off if I told you about my morning 19 miler? A friend I started at 3:30AM. Temp. was about 78. 70% moon. No wind. Venus was refecting in the ocean. Hilly course but calm & quiet. No traffic. Want to hear the best part??? As we were running up one hill that is right on and overlooks the sea, we glanced down and could see the reef through the perfectly flat water. This just made the #1 run in my training diary! Want to go one better??? I'll dive that same reef tonight and load up on lobster for dinner! I can't wait!
Oh... by-the-way... hope you stay warm!
#9
Posted 19 April 2006 - 09:47 AM
P.S. Yes I'm staying warm by training hard and burning lots of calories, it's the wind that gets to me, no matter what the temp is, oh well mother nature likes to play too.
Spike.
#10
Posted 19 September 2007 - 11:51 PM
I am going to sound stupid with this question
Your advice sounds really good but I dont get the part about the rubber band to keep your shoes in place
what is an assist loop on the shoe and the quick release?
I'm struggling to picture how it's done
I know this sounds dumb
Theo
#11
Posted 20 September 2007 - 02:20 PM
I once heard, "Ask a question and seem foolish for a moment. Don't ask a question and seem foolish for the rest of your life." No stupid questions here.
Most Tri shoes have a cloth loop on the heel of the shoe that allows you to pull it on by passing one finger through and pulling it up. A quick release is the lever on the rear wheel skewer that you rotate out to quickly release or secure the rear tire.
The rubber band is attached to the shoe and to the bike thereby holding it securely horizontal and keeping it from dragging on the ground and positioning the shoe on the other side in an optimal position to step down on to keep or start your forward momentum.
I’m no engineer so I hope I described this OK. Feel free to tell me if I didn’t and it needs further clarification. HTH
#12
Posted 20 September 2007 - 09:26 PM
I dont have tri specific cycling shoes so I dont have the loop thing
I'm looking to get some but for now I'll have to use my cycling shoes
But I get the picture
Thanks again
Theo
#13
Posted 29 February 2008 - 09:31 AM
#14
Posted 21 March 2008 - 03:05 PM
When you hit your stall, if you practice this, you can put your helmet on at the same time as you remove your suit. Use your one foot to hold the suit while you slide your other one out. If you get this right you can save 10-15 seconds.
canadiantriathletes.com
#15
Posted 23 March 2008 - 04:30 PM
#16
Posted 24 March 2008 - 04:03 AM
I usually except for IM, have to take them off myself, I know, tough.
I would rather wear a wetsuit as my swim times are better as a result!
canadiantriathletes.com
#17
Posted 24 March 2008 - 06:28 AM
In the few non-Ironman wetsuit races I've done, I came out of transition way ahead of the people who beat me out of the water. While I was off on the bike, they were still trying to get it off their legs :)
#18
Posted 30 September 2008 - 09:10 AM
Matt Cazalas
Technical Writer
network cables

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