cage pedals vs. clipless - Triathlon Week

nibbler · 03-22-2007, 12:40 PM

After competing in several sprint distance last season with cage pedals, I am considering switching to clipless pedals. This season, I am planning on an Olympic distance race for training, and a Half Iron in August.

For me:
- The pros of cage pedals are that I don't need to upgrade; I am already used to getting my feet in and out of them
- My bike to run transition time is less than a minute since I am already in my running shoes
- When I have to go to the bathroom on training rides it is easy to get off my bike and walk into the woods/coffee shop.

Question:
How much difference will clipless pedals make over cages, especially in a longer race?

Thanks for you input!

sfricks · 03-23-2007, 09:08 AM

Great question! Let's explore your "advantages" and some disadvantages of cages.

You're right about the upgrade. Clip pedals can be expensive. I’m a huge Speedplay fan You can pick up the new Light Actions for around $100. This is a great beginner pedal featuring “no look” double sided entry and ease of entry and exit. Speedplay’s look unconventional because the platform is on the shoe, not the pedal but I assure you, they’re beefy enough to hammer on.

Speedy transitions are not a great reason to remain clipless. I ride Clips and both T1 and T2 were around 30 seconds in my last event. See my post on transitions at [Only registered and activated users can see links. ] and someone else’s at [Only registered and activated users can see links. ].

Regarding your question about how much difference clips will make, I don’t know of any scientific studies but would guess as much as a 10% gain speed/efficiency. I’d guarantee that the time you’d gain in a Sprint Bike would far outweigh the loss of time in transition. On a 70.3 I’d say you’d be as much as 15-20 minutes faster.

I hope this answered your questions. Good luck and let us know how it goes!

pyschosyd · 03-24-2007, 06:29 AM

It probably the single biggest advance in my cycling ability when I finally learned clipless. I recomend starting out with a cheap set of mountain bike pedals. Welgo makes a good shimano knock off that is very adjustable.

It definetely improves your efficiency, I would suggest probably even more than fricks guessed. Possible up to 20-25%. Mainly because it allows you to position the axle of the pedal directly over the ball of your foot. There is also very little movement allowed.

Unfortunately the pedals aren't the expenxive part. The shoes are. However, the shoes are what really makes a big difference. Cycling shoes have solid soles that do not flex (very stiff). Usually a molded piece of plastic or Carbon (on the expensive ones). This serves a two-fold purpose. Firstly it allows you to direct all of your pedaling force onto the pedal with no energy wasted in the flex of your foot. More importantly though, it keeps your foot more relaxed and you are less likely to be 'clenching' your feet while pedalling. Which can fatigue your foot after many miles. Any energy you can save is worth it. You also avoid foot cramps which can come along with cycling in flexible soled shoes.

Clipless can be a bit of a pain to learn. When you buy your pedals ask the bike store to instal them for you and to have them help you set them up "easy." If you are installing them yourself, remember to put some bike grease on the threads.(so they will come off later) Follow the directions that come with the pedals for cleat placement on the shoes, and pedal set-up. Make sure the cleats position the pedal directly under the ball of your foot. A good way to do this is to put the shoe on and mark on the outsole where the ball of your foot is. This way you can estimate where the cleat should go. It will take some fideling to get it right. Probably 2 or 3 adjustments.

Once the cleats are on you can set the pedal up to be easier to get in and out of. On the pedal there are adjustment screws. Loosen these of all the way. (There are bumps at each adjustment level, so when you don't feel anymore of them you are at the easiest level) When you've loosened it off, turn it one 'bump' back. This makes sure that both sides of the pedal are at the same level. (there are screws that need to be adjusted on both sides of the pedal). The easy settin makes it easier to get in and out of the pedals. As you get better you can tighten this up, and get rid of some of the 'float'. At the easiest setting you can probably panic and wrench your foot out of the pedal.

To get out of the pedal all you need to do is turn the heal of your foot out.
To get in place the cleat at the front of the clip and push down and forward with your heal until you feel/hear a click.

Hope this helps. Sorry it is a bit long winded. I used to work at a bike store, and I've done this speal many times!

Cheers
Syd

sfricks · 03-24-2007, 11:21 AM

Great advise from Syd. If you're going to invest in shoes and 1) you're serious about triathlon and 2) you want to be as fast as possible, consider Tri-specific shoes. I ride Sidi T1's in 70.3s and shorter and Sidi Diadoras in Ironmans. These shoes allow for ease of entry and exit while still mounted to your bike.
Good luck!

nibbler · 03-27-2007, 10:49 AM

Thank you both for your input!